Chef Ben Says: Plank Your Salmon
"OMG GRILLING SEAFOOD IS TERRIFYING!!!" If you ask most folks, next to big hairy spiders, creepy clowns, and fanged reptiles, grilling a piece of seafood can cause heart pounding, palm sweating panic. OK, that might be a little hyperbolic, but as a culinary instructor, my observation is that people would eat way more seafood if they were sure they weren't going to wreck it.
Enter the cedar plank. A simple device, popularized by Alaskans years ago as a delightful way to grill fish, while imparting a lovely flavor, with less muss and fuss. They work.
I did a little research around the interwebs before I put this post together to see what the prevailing conventional wisdom is on this method. The answers are, as usual, all over the board. I tried a few methods, and came up with what I feel combines several techniques to enhance flavor, promote positive smokiness, and ensure proper doneness. This is easy. Relax.
First things first, soak a cedar plank. You should be able to find one at the grocery, or maybe at a hardware store that carries grills. Every recipe I've seen makes a big deal on how long to soak. At least an hour, 2 hours, 12 hours, 30 minutes. Here's what I found: I kind of want this thing to burn, but I don't want it going up in flames. The easiest solution for me was just to soak it while the grill was heating up, and I prepped up my fish. I have no idea how long it was, probably 20 minutes, I really don't think it matters, as long as it's nice and wet.
Set up a two-zone fire. I use a Primo ceramic cooker, which does two-zone cooking like a boss. If you're using gas, fire up one side of the grill to high, and leave the other side off. If you're using another charcoal grill, you're going to have to figure out a way to bank your coals to one side so that they approximate this:
Light the grill and close the lid. You're going to want the thermometer in the lid to be between 350 and 400 degrees. While she is preheating, get a few things together:
2 lbs Wild Pacific salmon, approximately an inch thick, skin on, and pin bones out
2 Tablespoons soy sauce
1/2 Tablespoon grated ginger
2 Tablespoons mirin (Japanese rice wine. It's in the International section of your mega mart)
1 Tablespoon sake (Go ahead and buy a bottle, this marinade is good on almost anything)
1 Tablespoon honey
A word on quality. I'm not one to get all judgy aboout what kind of fish your buy. Atlantic farm raised salmon is everywhere. It tastes ok. It's not nearly as good for you. This is a great method to break out for the good stuff, as it's low risk and low fuss. I will, however get judgy on your other ingredients. If you run across a bottle of La Choy soy sauce, throw it away. Get into a bottle of kikkoman. Don't buy cooking wine, buy cheap, real wine to cook with.
Mix the marinade ingredients and sploosh it over the fish. You can turn them flesh side down if you want a little more soak. You can use a zip-top bag if you want better coverage. The marinade is designed to work quickly, so no overnight soaks. Most importantly, relax. This is easy. This would be a great time to grab a refreshment of choice.
When the grill is ready, pop the lid and put your cedar plank over the hottest part of the fire. Let it start to burn a little, you'll smell the aroma right away. Flip it over and drop a fish filet on the charred part of the plank. Leave the plank with the filet on it over the hottest part of the fire for a few minutes, until you get that plank smoldering, and good and ripping hot. When it's good and smoky, move it to the cool side of the grill and drop the lid. You're going to need to maintain 350-400 degrees for **approximately** 30 minutes.
Here's where it's ok to start to fuss. The final temperature that this fish ends up is paramount. When I super quadruple asterisked the word approximately, it's because your grill, fire and fish are different than mine. Your weather and wind conditions are different than mine. What isn't different, however, is that regardless of any of those variables, once that fish crosses 135 degrees, it's time to be Johnny (or Jenny) on-the-spot. If it goes over 140, we're headed to sawdust town.
Here's me, CAPS LOCKED!!! IF YOU WANT TO BE SUCCESSFUL EVERY TIME COOKING FISH ON YOUR GRILL, YOU MUST USE AN INSTANT READ THERMOMETER!!! I have had countless individuals try to skirt this. It won't work. You are learning to be a great cook, and without the ability to measure how much heat you put into the food, that can't happen. This piece of fish cost 25 bucks, it's well worth the investment in a tool that tells me when it's perfect.
I temped this little beauty to 136 degrees. After a 5 minute rest, 140. Perfect. Drop it on a plate with a little asian slaw, and dinner history is made.
If only nightmares of creepy crawlies were so easily vanquished...
Cheers,
Chef Ben