Chef Ben Says: Cook Backwards
How often does it come about in your existence that a basic, logical tenet that you have held deeply to your heart your entire life turns out to be utter hogwash? Unfortunately, in the craft of cooking, it happens all the time.
Remember that time someone told you that you needed to sear a piece of meat at blistering temperatures before roasting it? Poppycock. Remember the comfortable logic that searing meat "seals in the juices?" Piffle.
The truth is, searing meat at ridiculous temperatures before roasting can often be destructive, and even cause a loss of moisture. At the very least, the conventional sear/roast method can promote uneven cooking, and less than optimal textures.
Don't feel silly or mislead. I have a $40,000 culinary education that handed me the same bucket of hooey.
Then why, you may ask, do we brown or sear food at all? The answer is simple. It tastes like magic, and can increase the depth of flavor in countless dishes. The process is called the "maillard reaction", and is one of the most complex chemical reactions in all of food. Just remember, it tastes like magic.
Along with modern appliances, and modern ingredients, we are also in a world of modern techniques. Bringing science into the kitchen, as opposed to conventional wisdom, can yield some startling realities. In focus today, is the "Reverse-Sear" method.
Often done with fancy "sous vide" machines and vacuum bags, this technique has been happening for decades now. For today's purpose, a simple pork-loin chop, we can accomplish this with items found in everyone's kitchen: an oven and a cast-iron skillet.
First to do a quick "dry-brine". Combine 1 1/2 tablespoons of salt with a teaspoon of sugar, and sprinkle liberally on a couple of gigantic pork chops. By gigantic, I mean bone in, and at least an inch thick. It's ok if two people have to share one. It's really tough to get a good sear on any meat that's really thin. Now park these rascals in the fridge on a wire rack until tomorrow. If you're dying to add more seasonings, feel free, but stay away from anything that burns really easily like paprika or turmeric.
OK, it's tomorrow. Remove the chops from the fridge, pat dry, and preheat your oven to 225. Don't worry about "warming up" the chops before you cook them, or any such nonsense, because that doesn't work either.
You're going to need a trusty oven thermometer handy. Pop the chops into the fully preheated oven.
Check them in about 25 minutes. They should be at about 125 degrees. If they're not done, cook them longer, duh. When they are done, they're going to look all pallid and grey. Not delicious. But oddly enough, they are delicious. The texture of these chops is firm, and incredibly juicy. We just need to doll up that outside a bit. Pop your trustiest cast iron-skillet onto the stove, and add a tablespoon of vegetable oil over high heat.
As soon as you drop the chops into your blistering hot skillet, drop in two tablespoons of butter to go with. Leave the whole thing alone for 90 seconds.
After 90 seconds, flip the chops, and start spooning some of that buttery love all over them. It will make them browner...and butterier. Continue until you are totally in love with their buttery goodness. Then remove from the pan and set aside to rest. The whole shebang shouldn't take more than about 4 minutes for both sides, otherwise you could overcook them, and nullify my whole argument. If you're really good kids, I'll show you how to do this on the grill in a later post. But only if you're really good.
While we're at it, we should have a lovely spring pasta dish. While your pork chops are in the oven, put a pot of water on to boil. and cook some gnocchi according to the package directions. EVEN BETTER MAKE THE ONES ON CHEFBENSAYS.COM!!! Anyway, when they are cooked and drained, add them to your porky and buttery pan you took the chops out of. Add a pound of asparagus cut into 1 inch pieces, a tablespoon of chopped sage and a thinly sliced shallot. Season with S+P and stir until everything starts to brown. Add a little chicken stock to deglaze, maybe a 1/4 cup.
Sploosh in about a quarter cup of cream and sprinkle in about a quarter cup of peccorino romano, or your favorite grating cheese. Cook 2 minutes or until the sauce looks yummy.
Plate the seared chop on top of the gnocchi, and lay your lips on the most succulent pork chop you've ever tasted, followed by a bite of spring.
Cheers,
Chef Ben